1. WHAT MAKES A MASTER CRAFTSMAN?
2. PLATINUM, WHITE GOLD OR YELLOW GOLD?
3. DIAMONDS
4. PRECIOUS METALS USED IN JEWELLERY MAKING

WHAT MAKES A MASTER CRAFTSMAN?

Jewellery through the ages has always been desired by both women and men and the preferred materials have been gold and precious stones. Many wonderful pieces of jewellery have survived from ages past and considering the primitive tools available in those times, the workmanship displayed can be astonishing. Craftsmanship was taken to a high level by Carl Faberge who was the doyen of the European jewellers and is remembered especially for the incredible jewellery that he fashioned for the Russian Czars and other royal personages.

Fortunately the skills and art of hand making jewellery has been passed on through the generations and there is still a passionate group of men and women who follow this trade although a fewer number who can be called Master Craftsmen. A Master Craftsman in the jewellery trade is one who has not only mastered the skill of working gold and other precious metals, but who can also set diamonds and other gems and also be skilled in chaising and ornamenting. Although repairing jewellery does not have the glamour of creating new rings, it calls for a high degree of skill to be able to successfully restore worn rings to make them almost indistinguishable from new. When starting his career, Kennedy Blair was apprenticed to a Master Craftsman and served five years learning the skills of fashioning gold, platinum and other precious metals, alloying and polishing and repairing worn jewellery. This however was only the beginning of the journey to becoming a Master Craftsman. Although diamond setting is generally accounted a separate trade he was fortunate to be introduced to the skills of all types of setting namely, claw setting, bead or grain setting, rub over or bezel setting, Gypsy or flush setting, tension setting and perhaps the most demanding of all channel setting.

Kennedy Blair is a registered member of the New Zealand Valuers Association which enables him to keep abreast of past and current values. Jewellery today is mostly produced in large numbers to accommodate the volume required by jewellery chain stores but there are always those persons who desire quality rings and other jewellery that are hand made and are of original design, a piece that is exclusive to them and which might one day be passed on to another generation.

Kennedy Blair says; “I am happy to sit down alongside someone who wishes to own a new diamond of precious stone ring or wedding ring and discuss what vision that person has of their dream ring.” There are a number of aspects to consider such as the particular stone ie: diamond, sapphire, ruby, emerald etc, the shape, cut, size, then the metal which might be platinum, white, yellow or rose gold and the carat quality. The type of setting, height and width of the band whether it is rounded, flat or tapered can all determine the finished appearance which builds “character” or “style” into the ring or piece of jewellery.

“I sometimes develop a ring to the stage where the stones are ready to be set and then allow the customer to view the piece when at that point small alterations may be made. Style is that indefinable ingredient which makes one ring stand out from another, creates individuality and adds the “wow” factor”, says Kennedy Blair.

PLATINUM, WHITE GOLD OR YELLOW GOLD?

Through the centuries Yellow Gold has been the preferred metal for jewellery. Because of its desirable colour and being found in only a few places on the planet it has been known as a “noble” metal. The mining of gold has always kept pace with demand which has resuited in the price remaining remarkably stable over the years, except for a few highs and lows mostly caused by political decisions.

Pure gold is known as 24 carat (24K) but in that form it is generally too soft for jewellery as it is likely to distort easily. Fine jewellery is usually made from 18K (.750) which is 24k alloyed with copper and silver. 9K (.375) is used for less expensive jewellery and, depending on the proportions of alloy, the colour can be varied from a paler yellow to a pinkish gold.

In recent years metallurgists have discovered how to alloy pure gold (24 carat) with rare white metals to make 18 carat and 9 carat white gold which retains a rich silvery finish much like platinum. White gold has attained popularity for diamond jewellery as it helps to enhance the whiteness and brilliance of diamonds. In New Zealand and Australia probably half of all the rings sold would be made in this metal.

Platinum however is often the choice for the finest jewellery as it is 99% pure and will wear longer and stay whiter than white gold. Because of its rarity and the time needed to fashion and finish a platinum ring it commands a premium price which is considered very good value for hand crafted jewellery that will endure for generations.

Many pieces of jewellery are made from a combination of all these metals with very pleasing effect and adds an infinite variety so that no two rings need ever look alike.

DIAMONDS

After making your decision to own a diamond possibly the next step is to decide on the shape ie Round Brilliant, Princess, Radiant, Emerald, Oval just to mention some of the more popular choices. It might be that a single diamond is decided on and maybe with some small shoulder stones or a multiple set of diamonds such as a three, four or five stone ring. The combination is only limited by your imagination. This brings us to the 4 C’s. Cut, Carat, Clarity and Colour.

All diamonds of a given weight are not equal concerning Cut, Clarity, Colour and Cost.

Cut refers to the facets on the diamond and this is in the hands of the cutter whose aim is to fashion the stone so that it reflects the maximum amount of light back to the eye. The Round Brilliant Cut has 58 facets and the angle of these will affect the brilliance and fire and ultimate beauty of your diamond.

PRECIOUS METALS USED IN JEWELLERY MAKING

Platinum, White gold, Yellow gold, and Rose gold are some precious metals used in jewellery making.

Platinum

Platinum used in jewellery platinum has a small amount of Iridium as a alloy. Although more expensive than white gold (which looks similar) Platinum has a superior wearing ability and resistance to corrosion. With time Platinum develops a soft patina which many people prefer to the reflective polish when new. Some prefer to have their new ring finished in a “brushed” effect which can enhance the pure sparkle and fire of the diamonds.

For those people who prefer the silvery look for their jewellery Platinum is the epitome of elegance and quality and because it the strongest of jewellery metals it will last a lifetime of normal wear.

Special skills are required in the working of platinum but for those who choose to pay a premium for this precious metal they will be rewarded with a lifetime of satisfaction.

White Gold

White gold is a metal that is widely used in making jewellery and comes in either 18 carat or 9 carat depending on the amount of alloy added. The modern white gold is a beautiful metal and has the ability to wear well and keep a bright silvery appearance. The cost is only marginally more expensive than yellow gold of similar carat and is very suitable for diamond settings or complete rings. Chaising or ornamenting on white gold can achieve a luxurious and timeless appearance.

Yellow Gold

Pure gold is called 24 carat (24K) but is too soft and malleable for everyday use so it is alloyed with a proportion of copper and silver to bring it to either 18K (.750) or 9K (.375) depending on the type of jewellery and usage. 18K is the metal of choice for most diamond rings as it has an ability to retain a bright golden appearance for a lifetime. Contrary to some assertions there is little proof that the softer 18K wears more rapidly than the harder 9K

Rose Gold

Rose Gold can come in either 18K or 9K due to the proportion of the silver and copper alloys. A Red Gold is produced by adding only copper to pure gold and this can be very effective in wedding rings and gold bangles etc.

Bi Metal

Many individual designs are created by joining white and yellow gold, especially in the forming of the bond of both engagement and wedding rings. The contrast in metal colour is not so apparent in a new ring but is plainly visible when a normal patina takes the place of the reflective polish.